| Author |
Message |
spudnuty
Guest
|
Posted:
Fri Nov 25, 2005 5:35 pm Post subject:
Re: Know about plumbing? |
|
|
| Quote: | I think the only way that could happen is if there was a hole in the heat
exchanger in the tank. Otherwise the primary and secondary are seperate once
the filler is closed.
Well if that valve were open and someone used the hot water the |
pressure drop in the boiler would cause a backflow into the cold side
supply line.
| Quote: | Yes with the primary fill valve closed the primary loop is sealed. The
regulator continues to feed the secondary side, heat exchanger and onto the
hot taps.
This is where I think it's hooked up wrong. |
I think the best thing to do is to find a local plumbing Guru and run
it by him. I have a few like that here in Chicago and they have really
been a font of info for me on stuff I run into in the old houses I work
on. The last time it's went like this: "When was it made?" - "In '93"-"
Does it look like a white jell?" -"Yup" "It's the dip tube they were
all made by the same ....then he sold the company....That will be
$1.50"
Good luck.
Richard, who loves a vigorous shower
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
CWatters
Guest
|
Posted:
Fri Nov 25, 2005 5:35 pm Post subject:
Re: Know about plumbing? |
|
|
"spudnuty" <spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1132904661.209452.64130@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
| Quote: | and there is a 3 bar safety valve in case the tank boils.
Well that is the job of the TPR valve which usually vents
out the top of the tank into a drain. These are both
thermostatic 210ºF and pressure 150 psi (10.32 bar!!)
all US figures. See:
http://www.usinspect.com/WaterHeaters/HWaterTPRValve.asp
|
It's not got a temperature sensitive valve unless hidden inside the tank
enclosure somewhere. It's just got a the 3bar relief valve. Perhaps locals
codes (Belgium) don't require anything more than a regular relief valve.
| Quote: | This primary would also have a TRP valve and that's good that's good
there's a valve because as it seems the way your system is hooked up
there is the chance of backflow from the boiler into the hot water side
of your system.
|
I think the only way that could happen is if there was a hole in the heat
exchanger in the tank. Otherwise the primary and secondary are seperate once
the filler is closed..
| Quote: | So if this valve is closed the inlet pressure regulator is out of
the circuit?
|
Yes with the primary fill valve closed the primary loop is sealed. The
regulator continues to feed the secondary side, heat exchanger and onto the
hot taps.
| Quote: | I think the inlet water pressure of your hot water supply tank
could be at city pressure unless that exceeds 8.5 bar or so.
|
Yes it looks like that. I just need to find out the data on the tank to
conform that it's rated for that. There must have been a reason why the
reflief valve installed is only 3 bar.
Meanwhile it's performing a bit better now that I changed the regulator from
a 1/2" 3bar to a 3/4" 3 bar unit. The drop accross it when the taps are
turned on is less.
Thanks for the info.
Colin |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
spudnuty
Guest
|
Posted:
Sat Nov 26, 2005 8:24 am Post subject:
Re: Know about plumbing? |
|
|
Colin,
| Quote: | It's just got a the 3bar relief valve. Perhaps locals
codes (Belgium) don't require anything more than a regular relief valve.
That doesn't sound right to me. The relief is not there to limit the |
inlet pressure it's to prevent the pressure in the tank from going too
hign re: 150 psi ^. If was installed like a normal pressure relief
valve it would be constantly open at 3 bar and if it wasn't it wouldn't
prevent the tank going over pressure.
I would run this by some local plumbing guru. I have many I rely on
here in Chicago. Usually I just describe the problem and often they
have the solution before I can even finish. Last year I had one like
that there was a gel like goop .......before I could finish he said. "
Oh yah those water heaters made around '93 have defective dip
tubes.....see one company made all of those...then they sold the
company .....gel in the bottom of the tank....little white flecks in
all the tap screens..."
Good luck
Richard who enjoys good water pressure.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
CWatters
Guest
|
Posted:
Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:01 pm Post subject:
Re: Know about plumbing? |
|
|
"spudnuty" <spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1132971878.916026.83740@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
| Quote: | Colin,
It's just got a the 3bar relief valve. Perhaps locals
codes (Belgium) don't require anything more than a regular relief valve.
That doesn't sound right to me. The relief is not there to limit the
inlet pressure it's to prevent the pressure in the tank from going too
hign re: 150 psi ^.
|
Yes, perhaps I wasn't clear. The input to the tank is like this
(Switch to fixed font)
Mains in at 5bar---> Regulator (set at 2.8) ----> Relief valve (3bar)
<-----> tank
|
V
Waste
If the tank boils the relief valve will open and water will flow back from
the tank and out through the relief valve to the waste. What I meant before
is that it's only got this overpressure relief there doesn't seem to be a
seperate over temperature relief (unless there is a thermal fuse or
something elsewhere).
Colin |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
CWatters
Guest
|
Posted:
Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:08 pm Post subject:
Re: Know about plumbing? |
|
|
"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nospam.nz> wrote in message
news:33c0.4386e9fd.1405@clunker.homenet...
| Quote: | if it is the regulator more regulators can be paralleled to increase the
flow capacity.
|
Thats a very interesting idea. I've now got enough pressure gauges in the
system to see what's going on at various points. I'm 100% convinced it's the
regulator because I can see the pressure drop across it when water is
flowing. That plus changing the size from 1/2" to 3/4" (both set 3bar) did
make a difference. I never thought of using two in parallel though. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Guest
|
Posted:
Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:35 am Post subject:
Re: Know about plumbing? |
|
|
Excellent and informative post spudnuty!
I'm not sure what country the original poster is from, but here in the
US it is extremely rare to have a pressure regulator on the feed line
to our homes (except in very unusual circumstance) but their is always
a regulator to drop the feed pressure to the hydronic heating furnace,
along with a pressure/temperature relief valve (as required by code).
Hot water heaters are also equipped with a pressure/temperature relief
valve and a vacuum breaker device (as required by code), but not
usually with a pressure regulator.
The amount of pressure in our hydronic home heating system is
determined by the altitude of the upper floors of the home, which is
nominally about 13 psi, hence the pressure regulator feeding water to
the heating system when needed is set to a value nominally above 13
psi.
Our hot water heater is a separate gas fired unit from Sears (nothing
special) with a 50 gallon tank, and is rated for a tank pressure limit
of (I just checked the label) 150 psi. Since our water feed pressure
from the street is nominally 45-50 psi, there is no need for a feed
water pressure regulator on the hot water heater, nor is such required
by code.
Sorry about the use of psi rather than bars, but all our current
heating devices are labeled in psi.
Kindest regards, Harry C. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|
|